Lansing area native shares her observances "Living in God's Country"

by Shirley Darling

We who are lucky enough to live within eyesight of this beautiful “Father of Waters” have much to share with others. One could be persuaded to think that the course of the Mississippi River has been the same for eons and gives us nothing new at which to marvel.

For eons, the waters have traced a southward journey from the river's source in Lake Itasca, MN to its final emptying into the Gulf of Mexico in Louisiana.  Sounds like a ho-hum trip day after day with no change worthy of notice.

So, what’s the big deal?

That question can be answered with a quote from Lansing resident Steve Casterton, whose home overlooks this river. In Steve’s words, “the view from my front yard changes every five minutes.”

That’s not a claim that can be made by every home owner, but those with a view much like Steve’s know that his claim is no exaggeration.  That view, literally, does change every five minutes.

Each season brings its own changes to delight and tantalize the senses of the viewer.  It is this magnificent river and his experiences on it that inspired Mark Twain to pen his stories of Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn - stories that still inspire generations to visit and connect with the river’s 2,000-plus miles of awe and wonderment.

Thanks to the efforts of many, many people, the newly-opened Driftless Area Visitor Center on the south edge of Lansing offers visitors the opportunity to be educated on river lore and be treated to an up close and personal view of Ol’ Man River.

Springtime on the river is most likely the most anticipated season of all because of the dramatic changes taking place. For several months the visible flow of the waters has been hidden from view by the ice and snow covering the surface. But now, the ice is breaking up and moving out of the main channel.

Soon, the ice will be gone from the sloughs and backwaters. Lansing-ites eagerly await news of the season’s first towboat to pass by our front door headed to a more northern port. High overhead we hear the cries of ducks, geese and other waterfowl as they, too, head back north from their winter homes down south. A good number of these waterfowl will set up housekeeping right here in our quiet and secluded backwaters.

The willows and island trees begin to clothe themselves in lush green. The song of the red-winged blackbirds can be heard along the riverbank as they compete for the best nesting sites. With the ice gone, the ever-present bald eagles can expand their foraging areas. Dedicated anglers who have been eagerly awaiting the spring walleye and bass season will trade their ice-fishing shacks for fishing boats. Pleasure crafts and houseboats are launched in anticipation of another great season.

Life in the backwaters is busy with beaver, muskrat and otter preparing to raise new families. Bullfrogs will soon be croaking their unique mating sounds. The Friends of Pool 9 will set aside a day dedicated to cleaning up the debris left behind on beaches, shorelines and backwaters.

Spring will give way to summer and its faster-paced activities. The river islands are a lush green and trees are fully leafed out. By now, the longer daylight hours encourage the river enthusiasts to get out early and make the most of the warmer temperatures and extra time. Recreational watercraft is operated at a frenzied pace. The sandbars are filled with families camping for several days at a time.

Weekends are never without scores of people taking part in water activities like swimming, skiing, tubing, or just soaking up the sun. The laughter of people enjoying themselves can be heard all around. A never-ending parade of yachts and pleasure craft, both northbound and southbound, cruise swiftly on the river. Sunfish, bluegills and perch lay waiting to be offered a nice, fat, juicy worm on which to bite.

Broods of young waterfowl being led by a parent can be seen all over in the backwaters. Turtles emerge from their muddy hibernation to mate and lay their eggs in the warm sands where the next generation will be hatched and then race for the safety of the waters. Turtles of all sizes will line up on logs and downed trees in the water to soak up the warmth of the sun.

Recreational anglers will try to outrace one another to reach the best fishing spot of the day while the commercial fisherman prepares to place his nets out of harm’s way. Canoeists and kayakers ply the more quiet waters off the main channel. Backwater lakes filled with beautiful blooming water lilies are one of the prettiest and most eye-pleasing sights of the season.

The whistle blowing of the towboats as they glide north and south with their cargo lets us know that summer is in full swing. It’s as though every living creature knows these lazy, carefree, sun-kissed days are fleeting.

As we head into autumn, the cool days put an end to most of the beach activities because the shorter days and cooler nights have lowered the water temperature to an uncomfortable level for swimming. Activity on the river may slow down, but it does not stop. The lush green of summer has given way to the more vibrant colors of fall.

It is now that we hear the familiar cry of the ducks, geese and other waterfowl as they begin their southward journey in preparation for winter. High overhead they can be seen flying in the typical Vee formation. Before long, another breed of sportsmen, the duck and goose hunter, will descend on the river to build their blinds and swap hunting stories as they wait for Opening Day. Their faithful retriever dogs sense that the time has come for them to show off their worth.  Tails wagging, they leap into the boats and hope today’s hunt will be successful.

The fall fishing season begins in earnest. Once again, walleyes and bass are the most sought after. Anglers in fishing boats will hover over every wing dam in hopes that their’s is the right one. The time has come for the pleasure craft and houseboats to be taken out of the water and moved to winter storage.

The number of towboats on the river reaches its highest. The race is on to get all the coal delivered to the northern power plants and move all the grain and corn southward from the northern terminals before the river freezes over.

Looking out on the Mississippi in the dead of winter offers us some pretty spectacular sights. The island trees have shed their leaves but a fresh snow dresses them in a dazzling white. The frozen waters, too, are covered with a blanket of snow. The channel buoy markers stand as silent sentinels only to be moved by the spring thaw.

In places where open water is found, scores of eagles will gather in the trees above watching and waiting patiently for a chance to catch a fish. The dark body of a mature bald eagle is a striking contrast to its white head. An entire tree full of them is a breathtaking sight.  Photographers with an array of camera lenses are a common sight during these days.

The river’s main channel may be deserted but the backwater sloughs and lakes are alive with that hardiest of sportsmen, the ice fisherman. Some bring along tents for protection from the cold while others tough it out with nothing but a five-gallon bucket as comfort. Dressed in snowmobile suits and heavy boots, they drill holes in the ice from which they hope to catch a bucketful of fish. It has been said that no fish tastes better than the ones taken from the icy cold waters of winter.

There have been countless times when its waters have turned cruel, wreak havoc and demonstrate that the river can never be completely tamed by man. Still, it is an unrivaled sight to sit on the banks of the Mississippi River and watch the sunrise over the Wisconsin hills. Stay longer, and you will see the sun’s rays begin to sparkle like diamonds on the water. With the coming of dusk, the sparkles will turn to a soft glow as the sun begins to set behind the Iowa bluffs overlooking this magnificent river.

There is a quote, “the more things change, the more they same the same”. This quote can be loosely applied to the four seasonal changes on the river because each change can be described with the same oft-used word - awesome.  During all four seasons here in Lansing, Iowa, the cantilevered Black Hawk Bridge rises high above the flowing waters beneath. This unique structure, in one of the most beautiful and photogenic settings imaginable, accentuates the beauty of our area. A view like this from the cat-bird seat compels us to realize how blessed we are and reaffirms our belief that we truly do live in God’s Country.